So you’ve bought a motorised projector screen and have no idea what to do with it? In this project I’m installing a projector screen with off-set wall mounting brackets to avoid the TV hung on the wall behind it. These things are awesome and nowhere near as expensive as you would think. It gets used almost every day!
Watch the full video here:
Welcome back! Today I’m hanging my brand new 90″ motorised projector screen. I went for a Luxburg 90″ screen used with a BenQ W1050 projector and it’s been great – obviously do a bit of homework to check the ideal screen size for your projector. It’s pointless getting a massive screen if your projector can’t make the image that big or you don’t have sufficient throw distance (the distance from your projector to the screen).
Avoiding the TV on the wall
I have quite a deep TV on the wall so I needed to make some custom brackets to hold the projector screen away from the wall. I didn’t want to ceiling-mount the screen since it can only be attached using 2 small screws and the weight was a bit over what I’d be comfortable with for an item that would be moving every day. If it was a static object, for example a screen that was always going to be left down, you could probably get away with suitable plasterboard / drywall fixings. I decided to make some custom wall-mounting brackets.
Before I start on the installation, if you don’t know what you’re doing with electrics you’ll need to get an electrician in to install a socket in a convenient location behind the top of the screen where it won’t be too noticable. Although I’ve been working with electrics for my entire life, I’m not a qualified electrician and I don’t make ‘how to’ videos for electrics on this channel. Playing with electrics if you don’t know what you’re doing can be fatal.
Making the off-set supports
I had some left over scraps of thick treated timber that were perfect for the brackets. Obviously you don’t need to use treated timber in indoor projects like this but it’s just what I had going spare in the workshop. You might be able to find some off-cuts of joist timber at your local woodyard or DIY store. I chamfered the edges prior to gluing and screwing them to an 18mm MDF backer board. I used my air sander to sand everything down prior to assembly and painting. I used a PVA / water mix to seal the edges of the MDF however these days it’s better and faster to use water-based acrylic primer undercoat to seal the edges of the MDF. After a coat of primer was applied and allowed to dry, I fitted the brackets to the wall at ceiling height carefully checking for pipes beforehand. They were fitted using long screws through the sides of the bracket. The screw heads were hidden using screw caps. Everything was given a final coat of matt white emulsion and allowed to dry.
Hanging the motorised projector screen
The screen attaches to the wall using a small keyhole screw mount on each side. These are great since you can take the screen down without removing any screws, it does however limit your screw choice to ones that will fit through the keyhole. I fitted an appropriate screw in each side of the bracket and then did a test-hanging of the screen to make sure everything worked as planned. It all fitted perfectly so it was time to do some last finishing touches on the mounting brackets prior to doing the final install of the screen.
I used sticky pads designed for use with cable ties (zip ties) along the back length of the screen assembly to keep the cables neat and hidden away. I had already run a power cable through the wall with a junction box hidden behind the top of the screen. I haven’t covered the installation of the power cable on this video – see my note about about electrics.
I lifted the screen on to the screws, hung through the keyhole mounts and then tidied up the cabling behind the screen using cable ties. The control unit was screwed to the ceiling next to the power junction box. You could make an enclosure for the electrics if required – the remote for this particular screen doesn’t require line-of-sight and can be used whether the screen is up or down. Obviously if you have a screen with an infrared remote you’ll need to make sure the control unit can be ‘seen’ by the remote at all times. I think most these days use RF (wireless) as opposed to IR (infrared).
Adjusting the projector screen height
This particular screen has two adjustment screws (potentiometers if you want to be posh) on the back of the unit to control the drop (bottom height) and top height of the screen, in other words so the screen knows when to stop. You just use a small screwdriver to adjust these – it’s very simple but follow the instructions provided with your individual screen. On mine I wanted to have the same size black strip all around it as this looked the neatest. Hope you found that useful, don’t forget to subscribe on YouTube – in part 2 I’ll be installing the projector!
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